This is where you'll find things like thread sealant,
head gaskets for Sheaffer vacuum fillers,
pen repair supplies, tools, and other...
The tools and repair supplies listed on this page are ones that I use
on a regular basis.
If it's shown here, you're likely to find it on my bench. Read on for
Prices do not include shipping.
|Sheaffer-formula thread sealant
When I visited
the Sheaffer repair
center, I was very interested in the
thread sealant that they used. It was a light
transparent, low oder, and quite tacky. After doing
research, I have reproduced their thread sealant, using the same basic formula,
with exactly the same properties. I now use it to seal
any and all pens that require thread sealant, the Parker 51 being the
only exception, where I still prefer to use shellac. It's
great for securing Parker Vacumatic and 51 jewels.
The price of the raw materials has doubled since we started making the
thread sealant several years ago, so we now offer just the small jar.
separately, or with the head gaskets, the sealant will be shipped first
|Sheaffer Vacuum filler (AKA Wire
The material that one uses for the head gasket or piston washer on a
Sheaffer wire pen is important. You need a material
will hold up well when exposed to ink, that will flex but be hard
enough that it won't pull off of the piston rod.
washers are within 0.001" of the thickness of the material used by
Sheaffer. . Unlike head gaskets made by generic
the diameter of these gaskets are precisely sized for the Sheaffer
pens. They're what
I use when I repair a
Sheaffer Vacuum filler.
Though not listed on our web site before, we have had the buna-N head
gasket rubber available for sale. Several folks have
us asking if they could buy the head gaskets already punched.
we now offer an assortment pack of head gaskets, with all three sizes.
The distribution in size based on our experiences repairing
You'll receive a total of 20 in the assortment - 14 small
(the most common size), 4 medium size
(for the 500 and 1000 Balance wire pens) and 2 oversize, for
oversize Balance pens.
If you prefer to buy the buna-N sheets and punch your own, a
sheet is $10, 3 for $25. I strongly recommend that
the punch set from Francis Goosens (Fountainbel on FPN)
than use a generic punch.
|Vacumatic Jewel Tool $4.50 each
Parker Vacumatic and 51 jewels are a pain in the tush. Once in a
while they come out nice and easy. Most of the time they hang in
there and laugh at your attempts to get them out. How in the world
are you supposed to unscrew this flat thing that you can't grip with a
pair of anything - fingers, section pliers, slip joint pliers,
vise grips, or a vise. You use these silly things. I
have for years. I always have at least a couple in my tool box.
Not your ordinary stopper, they're softer and stickier so that
they grip a jewel as you press down, and boy do they grip.
A couple notes on their use though. It is possible to shear off a
51 jewel with these if you aren't careful. You may still need
naphtha to break down the rosin used as a thread locking compound, and
some heat. But your chances of getting the jewel off are better
with these little things. When they lose some of their
stickiness, clean the rubber off with acetone and let air dry.
You can also sand the top layer a bit to expose the rubber
below the surface
About 1" wide at the top, and 1" deep.
I like a lot of light when I work on pens, and have two bright lamps on
my bench. But they aren't enough when I need to
inside a pen. A simple flashlight, whether LED or
has a beam that's too wide, and the light reflects off of
around the pen making it difficult to see down inside
a pen or pen cap. Years ago I bought an LED
that was really skinny, and had a focused LED beam that would shine
down into a cap. Neat! But the problem is that when
involved in a repair it's not uncommon for me to put the flashlight
down without turning it off. I was always running the
down, and the stupid things cost $10 or more to replace! (ouch!)
Then I found this little gem. It has a very bright LED that lasts years
that has a lens in front of it to focus the beam (no scatter, no
refection!), and it uses a single, cheap AAA battery.
was hooked. I bought three - one to use, one as a spare in
tool box, and one in my supply cabinet as a backup. I like
that much. But I haven't needed them. Over 3 years
I'm still using the same one, even though it's been dropped off of the
bench, stepped on, and acetone spilled on it. Do you get the
that I like them? I think that you need this
flashlight which is why I'm offering them here. It's as
indispensable as a pair of section pliers.
The package includes one AAA battery.
unadulterated silicone grease. Designed to be used on
rubber and synthetic rubber 0-rings and seals.
This is a
lower viscosity grease, i.e. it's stiffer than the stuff from scuba
shops, and is more resistant to washing off than some others on the
market, and silicone oil. That means it's less likely to get
into the ink or feed. You'll find it on my shop bench and
on the table at pen shows. You
use it on anything that needs to be lubricated on fountain
Sheaffer touchdown tubes, plunger rods,
Pelikan piston seals,
mechanisms etc..... Net wt. 9.5 grams.
| Main Street Pens wax
free pen polishing kit
have been many discussions about what to use to polish a pen, and
whether or not one should use wax of one kind or another to polish a
pen. My clients like to receive their repaired pens not only
working, but looking great, but I have considered the arguments pro and
con, and have moved away from using any polishes containing wax on
This is the last
step in my
repair process, done before the pen is put in it's bag as completed.
The polish contains no solvents, no wax - simply a water
polish that takes a really nice shine and turns it into a "wow!" shine
that allows the colors of a pen to pop. The kit contains a 1
fluid ounce bottle of polish and a micro-fiber polishing
It's what I use all day, every day. The
cloth can be
washed and reused when needed.
Note that if you have a pen that needs a heavy cleaning or polish
you'll want to use micro-mesh or some other preliminary material before
using this polish.
I'm often asked what I recommend for polishing sterling
and gold pens, especially pens like a Parker 75 cisile'.
have only one answer - a Sunshine cloth. They work
well indeed to remove tarnish from a pen or nib, without any
the residue that gets into every nook and cranny from a paste polish.
Use something like Simicrome on a pen, and you'll take out
blackening on a Parker 75. I've seen it, and repaired it,
times. It's also effective in cleaning up the surface of a
plated or solid gold pen. Use sparingly though on plated
You can also use a Sunshine cloth to polish a gold nib
fear of getting the polish into the slit or heart of a nib (that's a
mess to clean out too!).
The Sunshine cloth cleans with special non scratch
micro-abrasives, and will last a very long time. You can keep
using the cloth, and it will keep working long after
appears to be loaded up with the removed tarnish.
wash it though - you'll destroy it's ability to clean.
One 5" X 7 3/4" cloth per tube/
|Sac cement AKA orange
shellac w/attached brush
is the duct tape of pen repair. You use it to secure PVC and
latex sacs to sac nipples, to hold cap parts together, for all kinds of
things where you want something to be stuck but
not glued in
place. It softens and releases when heated to about 130F.
I've been repairing pens for a couple of decades now, and
yet to go through a half pint can of shellac. This is orange
shellac in a 1 oz bottle with an application brush inside the cap.
Exactly what I use day in and day out. See my
about shellac on the Blue Fingers
Parker VP and the (NEW!)
PARKER 65 filler units
Parker made the VP for just two years - a very short life
compared to the decades long run of the Parker 51. They're
pens, but plagued with a vulnerable filler. These
necked fillers were intended to be pulled out of the section, filled
with ink and then inserted back into the pen, eliminating ink on the
nib, and therefore wiping ink off of nib, section or any other part.
The problem is that the plastic used (plastic, not glass) is
quite brittle and tended to break. Many people shy away from
VP even though is a very comfortable pen to use, because of
filler problem. When the filler breaks, you have a dead pen.
I'm proud to introduce my reproduction filler units. Faithful
dimension and detail, these are exact reproductions of the original VP
fillers. If you have a VP filler, the remains of the broken
can be removed and my replacement installed. If you
VP pen but no filler, I can provide a complete replacement
a modified sac guard from an aerometric 51 or Parker 21. The
original breather tube is replaced with one of stainless
A #18 sac is used on the sac nipple.
If your 65 is not a cartridge/converter pen and uses a VP style
filler, I also have reproduction Parker 65 filler units.
The difference is that the 65 has a smooth (VS
front end. This keeps you from accidentally
nib, and maybe cracking the "widows peak" on the front of the section.
Like the VP fillers, I can supply just the front end, or make
complete filler unit for your Parker 65.
Not sure if your 65 needs this filler? Look in the
end of the
section. If you see a piercing tube, it uses a converter,
If you see a hole, and maybe the flat end of a collector
it, you need this filler.
be made to order - lead time 2-3 days after payment is received.
filler installed in your pens sac guard - $60
filler with modified 51/21 sac guard (our choice) -
though I prefer to use an eyeglass loupe when I do nib work,
keep a loupe like this handy. Though inexpensive, I find
lens is still bright with good magnification. It comes in a