This is where you'll find things like
head gaskets for Sheaffer vacuum
pen repair supplies, tools, and
The tools and repair supplies listed
on this page are ones that I use
on a regular basis.
If it's shown here, you're likely to
find it on my bench. Read on for
Prices do not include shipping.
VP and the (NEW!)
PARKER 65 filler units
Parker made the VP for just two years - a very
short lifecompared to the decades long run of the Parker
greatpens, but plagued with a vulnerable filler.
longnecked fillers were intended to be pulled out of the
with ink and then inserted back into the pen,
eliminating ink on thenib, and therefore wiping ink off
of nib, section or any other part.
The problem is that the plastic used (plastic, not
glass) isquite brittle and tended to break. Many
people shy away from
theVP even though is a very comfortable pen to
use, because of
thefiller problem. When the filler breaks, you
have a dead pen.
I'm proud to introduce my reproduction filler units.
todimension and detail, these are exact reproductions of
the original VP
fillers. If you have a VP filler, the remains of
can be removed and my replacement installed. If
you have a
VP pen but no filler, I can provide a complete
a modified sac guard from an aerometric 51 or Parker 21.
Theoriginal breather tube is replaced with
one of stainless
steel. A #18 sac is used on the sac nipple.
If your 65 is not a cartridge/converter pen and uses a
filler, I also have reproduction Parker 65 filler
units. The difference is that the 65 has a
splined)front end. This keeps you from
unscrewing thenib, and maybe cracking the "widows peak"
on the front of the section.
Like the VP fillers, I can supply just the front
end, or makea
complete filler unit for your Parker 65.
Not sure if your 65 needs this filler? Look
end of thesection. If you see a piercing tube, it
uses a converter,
If you see a hole, and maybe the flat end of a
it, you need this filler.
be made to order - lead time 2-3 days after payment is
installed in your pens sac guard - $60
Note that if the
breather tube is missing, there will be a $6
charge for a replacement
filler with modified 51/21 sac guard (our choice)
When I visited
the Sheaffer repair
center, I was very interested in the
thread sealant that they used. It was a
transparent, low oder, and quite tacky.
research, I have reproduced their thread sealant,
using the same basic formula,
with exactly the same properties. I now use it to
any and all pens that require thread sealant, the Parker
51 being the
only exception, where I still prefer to use shellac.
great for securing Parker Vacumatic and 51 jewels.
The price of the raw materials has doubled since we
started making the
thread sealant several years ago, so we now offer just
the small jar.
separately, or with the head gaskets, the sealant will
be shipped first
Vacuum filler (AKA Wire
The material that one uses for the head gasket or piston
washer on a
Sheaffer wire pen is important. You need a
will hold up well when exposed to ink, that will flex
but be hard
enough that it won't pull off of the piston rod.
washers are within 0.001" of the thickness of the
material used by
Sheaffer. . Unlike head gaskets made by
the diameter of these gaskets are precisely sized for
pens. They're what
I use when I repair a
Sheaffer Vacuum filler.
We offer an assortment pack of head gaskets, with all
The distribution in size based on our experiences
wire pens. You'll receive a total of 20 in
the assortment - 14 small
(the most common size), 4 medium size
(for the 500 and 1000 Balance wire pens) and 2
oversize Balance pens.
Jewel Tool $4.50
Parker Vacumatic and 51 jewels are a pain in the tush.
Once in a
while they come out nice and easy. Most of the
time they hang in
there and laugh at your attempts to get them out.
How in the world
are you supposed to unscrew this flat thing that you
can't grip with a
pair of anything - fingers, section pliers, slip
vise grips, or a vise. You use these silly
have for years. I always have at least a couple in
my tool box.
Not your ordinary stopper, they're softer and
stickier so that
they grip a jewel as you press down, and boy do
A couple notes on their use though. It is possible
to shear off a
51 jewel with these if you aren't careful. You may
naphtha to break down the rosin used as a thread locking
some heat. But your chances of getting the jewel
off are better
with these little things. When they lose some of
stickiness, clean the rubber off with acetone and let
You can also sand the top layer a bit to
expose the rubber
below the surface
About 1" wide at the top, and 1" deep.
I like a lot of light when I work on pens, and have two
bright lamps on
my bench. But they aren't enough when I need
inside a pen. A simple flashlight, whether LED or
has a beam that's too wide, and the light reflects
around the pen making it difficult to see down
a pen or pen cap. Years ago I bought an LED
that was really skinny, and had a focused LED beam that
down into a cap. Neat! But the problem is
involved in a repair it's not uncommon for me to put the
down without turning it off. I was always running
down, and the stupid things cost $10 or more to replace!
Then I found this little gem. It has a very bright LED
that lasts years
that has a lens in front of it to focus the beam (no
refection!), and it uses a single, cheap AAA
was hooked. I bought three - one to use, one as a
tool box, and one in my supply cabinet as a backup.
that much. But I haven't needed them. Over 3
I'm still using the same one, even though it's been
dropped off of the
bench, stepped on, and acetone spilled on it. Do
you get the
that I like them? I think that you need
flashlight which is why I'm offering them here.
indispensable as a pair of section pliers.
The package includes one AAA battery.
Main Street Pens wax
free pen polishing kit
have been many discussions about what to use to polish a
whether or not one should use wax of one kind or another
to polish a
pen. My clients like to receive their repaired
pens not only
working, but looking great, but I have considered the
arguments pro and
con, and have moved away from using any polishes
containing wax on
This is the last
step in my
repair process, done before the pen is put in it's bag
The polish contains no solvents, no wax - simply a
polish that takes a really nice shine and turns it into
a "wow!" shine
that allows the colors of a pen to pop. The kit
contains a 1
fluid ounce bottle of polish and a micro-fiber
It's what I use all day, every day.
cloth can be
washed and reused when needed.
Note that if you have a pen that needs a heavy cleaning
you'll want to use micro-mesh or some other preliminary
using this polish.
unadulterated silicone grease. Designed to
be used on
rubber, plastic and synthetic rubber 0-rings
and seals, and
according to the application notes, compatable
elastomers and polymers.
This is a
lower viscosity grease, i.e. it's stiffer than the stuff
shops, and is more resistant to washing off than some
others on the
market, and silicone oil. That means it's less
likely to get
into the ink or feed. You'll find it on my
shop bench and
on the table at pen shows. You
use it on anything that needs to be lubricated on
Sheaffer touchdown tubes, plunger
Pelikan piston seals,
mechanisms etc..... Not recommended for use
as a thread
sealant - use the rosin based thread sealant at the top
of this page.
Net wt. 9.5 grams.
I'm often asked what I recommend for polishing
and gold pens, especially pens like a Parker
have only one answer - a Sunshine cloth.
well indeed to remove tarnish from a pen or nib,
the residue that gets into every nook and cranny from a
Use something like Simicrome on a pen, and you'll
blackening on a Parker 75. I've seen it, and
times. It's also effective in cleaning up the
surface of a
plated or solid gold pen. Use sparingly though on
You can also use a Sunshine cloth to polish a
fear of getting the polish into the slit or heart of a
nib (that's a
mess to clean out too!).
The Sunshine cloth cleans with special non
micro-abrasives, and will last a very long time.
You can keep
using the cloth, and it will keep working long
appears to be loaded up with the removed tarnish.
wash it though - you'll destroy it's ability to clean.
One 5" X 7 3/4" cloth per tube/
cement AKA orange
shellac w/attached brush
is the duct tape of pen repair. You use it to
secure PVC and
latex sacs to sac nipples, to hold cap parts together,
for all kinds of
things where you want something to be stuck
not glued in
It softens and releases when heated to about 130F.
I've been repairing pens for a couple of decades
yet to go through a half pint can of shellac. This
shellac in a 1 oz bottle with an application brush
inside the cap.
Exactly what I use day in and day out. See
about shellac on the Blue
though I prefer to use an eyeglass loupe when I do
keep a loupe like this handy. Though inexpensive,
lens is still bright with good magnification. It
comes in a