This is where you'll find things like
head gaskets for Sheaffer vacuum
pen repair supplies, tools, and
The tools and repair supplies listed
on this page are ones that I use on
a regular basis.
If it's shown here, you're likely to
find it on my bench. Read on for
Prices do not include shipping.
Please let us know
where you live when you
order. Shipping rates may be
destination, and we must collect sales
VP and the (NEW!)
PARKER 65 filler units
Parker made the VP for just two years - a very
short life compared to the decades long run of the
Parker 51. They're great pens, but plagued
with a vulnerable filler. These long necked
fillers were intended to be pulled out of the section,
filled with ink and then inserted back into the pen,
eliminating ink on the nib, and therefore wiping ink off
of nib, section or any other part. The problem is
that the plastic used (plastic, not glass) is quite
brittle and tended to break. Many people shy away
from the VP even though is a very comfortable pen to
use, because of the filler problem. When the
filler breaks, you have a dead pen. Until now.
I'm proud to introduce my reproduction filler units.
Faithful to dimension and detail, these are exact
reproductions of the original VP fillers. If you
have a VP filler, the remains of the broken one can be
removed and my replacement installed. If
you have a VP pen but no filler, I can provide a
complete replacement using a modified sac guard
from an Aerometric 51 or Parker 21. The original
breather tube is replaced with one of stainless
steel. A #18 sac is used on the sac nipple.
If your 65 is not a cartridge/converter pen and uses a
VP style filler, I also have reproduction Parker
65 filler units. The difference is that the 65 has
a smooth (VS splined)front end. This
keeps you from accidentally unscrewing thenib, and maybe
cracking the "widows peak" on the front of the section.
Like the VP fillers, I can supply just the front
end, or makea complete filler unit for your Parker
Not sure if your 65 needs this filler? Look
in the end of the section. If you see a piercing
tube, it uses a converter, If you see a hole, and
maybe the flat end of a collector beyond it, you need
Fillers will be made to order - lead time
4-5 days after payment is received.
installed in your pens sac guard - $65
Note that if the
breather tube is broken or missing, there will be
a $6 charge for a replacement
VP/65 filler with modified 51/21 sac guard
(our choice) - $75
thread sealant $14
When I visited the Sheaffer repair
center, I was very interested in the thread
sealant that they used. It was a light amber,
nearly transparent, low oder, and quite tacky.
After doing some research, I have reproduced
their thread sealant, using the
same basic formula, with
exactly the same properties. I now use it to seal
threads on any and all pens that require thread sealant,
the Parker 51 being the only exception, where I still
prefer to use shellac. It's also great for
securing Parker Vacumatic and 51 jewels.
The price of the raw materials has doubled since we
started making the thread sealant several years ago, so
we now offer just the small jar.
If purchased separately, or with the head gaskets, the
sealant will be shipped first class mail
Vacuum filler (AKA Wire pen) head gasket assortment
The material that one uses for the head gasket or piston
washer on a Sheaffer wire pen is important.
You need a material that will hold up well when
exposed to ink, that will flex but be hard enough that
it won't pull off of the piston rod. These
washers are within 0.001" of the thickness of the
material used by Sheaffer. . Unlike head
gaskets made by generic punches, the diameter of these
gaskets are precisely sized for the Sheaffer pens.
They're what I use when I
repair a Sheaffer Vacuum filler.
We offer an assortment pack of head gaskets, with all
three sizes. The distribution in size based on our
experiences repairing the wire pens. You'll
receive a total of 20 in the assortment - 14 small
gaskets (the most common size), 4 medium size (for the
500 and 1000 Balance wire pens) and 2 oversize,
for the oversize Balance pens.
I like a lot of light when I work on pens, and have two
bright lamps on my bench. But they aren't
enough when I need to look down inside a pen. A
simple flashlight, whether LED or incandescent, has a
beam that's too wide, and the light reflects off
of areas around the pen making it difficult to see down inside a pen
or pen cap. Years ago I bought an LED
flashlight that was really skinny, and had a focused LED
beam that would shine down into a cap. Neat!
But the problem is that when I get involved in a
repair it's not uncommon for me to put the flashlight
down without turning it off. I was always running
the batteries down, and the stupid things cost $10 or
more to replace! (ouch!)
Then I found this little gem. It has a very bright LED
that lasts years that has a lens in front of it to focus
the beam (no scatter, no refection!), and it uses
a single, cheap AAA battery. I was hooked.
I bought three - one to use, one as a spare in the
tool box, and one in my supply cabinet as a backup.
I like it that much. But I haven't needed
them. Over 3 years later I'm still using the same
one, even though it's been dropped off of the bench,
stepped on, and acetone spilled on it. Do you get
the idea that I like them? I think that you
need this bright little flashlight which is why I'm
offering them here. It's as indispensable as a
pair of section pliers.
The package includes one AAA battery.
Main Street Pens wax free pen polishing kit
There have been many discussions
about what to use to polish a pen, and whether or not
one should use wax of one kind or another to polish a
pen. My clients like to receive their repaired
pens not only working, but looking great, but I have
considered the arguments pro and con, and have moved
away from using any polishes containing wax on vintage
This is the last
step in my repair process, done before the pen is put in
it's bag as completed. The polish contains no
solvents, no wax - simply a water based polish that
takes a really nice shine and turns it into a "wow!"
shine that allows the colors of a pen to pop. The
kit contains a 1 fluid ounce bottle of polish and
a micro-fiber polishing cloth. It's what I
use all day, every day. The cloth can be
washed and reused when needed.
Note that if you have a pen that needs a heavy cleaning
or polish you'll want to use micro-mesh or some other
preliminary material before using this polish.
Pure, unadulterated silicone
grease. Designed to be used on rubber,
plastic and synthetic rubber 0-rings and seals,
and according to the application notes, compatable
with many elastomers and polymers. This is a
lower viscosity grease, i.e. it's stiffer than the stuff
from scuba shops, and is more resistant to washing off
than some others on the market, and silicone oil.
That means it's less likely to get into the ink or feed.
You'll find it on my
shop bench and on the table at pen shows. You use
it on anything that needs to be lubricated on
fountain pens like Sheaffer touchdown tubes,
plunger rods, Pelikan piston seals,
mechanisms etc..... Not recommended for use
as a thread sealant - use the rosin based thread sealant
at the top of this page.
I'm often asked what I recommend for polishing
sterling silver and gold pens, especially pens
like a Parker 75 cisile'. I have only one
answer - a Sunshine cloth. They work very
well indeed to remove tarnish from a pen or nib,
without any of the residue that gets into every
nook and cranny from a paste polish. Use something
like Simicrome on a pen, and you'll take out the
blackening on a Parker 75. I've seen it, and
repaired it, many times. It's also effective in
cleaning up the surface of a gold plated or solid gold
pen. Use sparingly though on plated metals.
You can also use a Sunshine cloth to polish a
gold nib without fear of getting the polish into the
slit or heart of a nib (that's a mess to clean out
The Sunshine cloth cleans with special non
scratch micro-abrasives, and will last a very long time.
You can keep using the cloth, and it will
keep working long after it appears to be loaded up
with the removed tarnish. Don't wash it
though - you'll destroy it's ability to clean.
One 5" X 7 3/4" cloth per tube/
cement AKA orange shellac w/attached
Shellac is the duct tape of pen repair.
You use it to secure PVC and latex sacs to sac
nipples, to hold cap parts together, for all kinds of
things where you want something to be stuck
but not glued
in place. It softens and releases
when heated to about 130F. I've been repairing
pens for a couple of decades now, and have yet to go
through a half pint can of shellac. This is orange
shellac in a 1 oz bottle with an application brush
inside the cap. Exactly what I use day in and day
out. See my comments about shellac on the Blue
Even though I prefer to use an eyeglass loupe when
I do nib work, I still keep a loupe like this handy.
Though inexpensive, I find that the lens is still
bright with good magnification. It comes in a